14 July
It was a long haul on the motorway eastwards to the coast and Valencia. Many times we had seen a sign beside the road saying "Disculpen las Molestias". We thought this must be some campaign to discipline child molesters. However on carefully checking our Spanish dictionary it turned out that this sign meant "Sorry for the inconvenience" (road works).
We searched around a bit for a camp site on the coast south of Valencia - certainly saw orange trees growing, but this area is covered in extensive rice fields, and reminded us of our trip to Japan. It is the birthplace of paella. The area was rather run down and derelict and with its flat low lying swamps, reminded us also of Louisiana. High rise apartment buildings lined the beach front.
After setting up our tent in a campsite - Devesa Gardens, also termed by us Devesa prison for its extreme security fencing, barriers etc. It was also the most expensive camping of our whole trip 27 Euros (NZ $ 54) to camp on stones. We decided to go in and look at Valencia in the evening. We caught a bus in, cheap and glad not to drive on such busy roads, but not a particularly pretty trip. Once we arrived in the central city we were amazed at how busy and lively Valencia was - and this was a Monday night! Crowded with people and everyone in a rush. We were getting quite hungry but were told at one restaurant that they did not start serving until 8.30pm (we are in Spain after all where people often do not eat until 10pm). Fortunately we found a place that would serve us and we enjoyed a tasty paella.
15 July
Heading northwards from Valencia along the coast we took a morning stop at Sagunto, which turned out to be most interesting. We walked up to a large derelict castle along a ridge above the town.
Next stop was at a very popular long beach with the unfortunate name of Peniscola - it´s name hasn´t kept the crowds away, and it is a beautiful long golden Mediterranean beach.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
In the middle of Spain
13 - 14 July
We took two interesting stops during this drive. First Consuegra, a small farming town famous for several well preserved windmills of the type made famous by Don Quiote - aligned along a ridge, they were most photogenic. In the distance was a modern wind farm, one of many we have seen in our travels through France, Portugal and Spain. We thought NZ was well advanced with wind farms, but there are a great many in europe.
The second stop was in the Parque Natural de las Lagunas de Ruidera - a ribbon of 14 small lagoons. The water was strikingly blue and contrasted with the fairly arid scrubby terain around. It made a nice spot for a picnic lunch. The scenery in these parts reminded us of Australia - red soils, scrubby bush, vineyards -but with olive trees as well.
Our destination was Cuenca - famous for its old town and particularly a few houses dating back to the middle ages which overhang high steep cliffs.
Our campground near Cuenca was very nice, with plenty of space and best of all, we were on grass! Most of the tent sites in Spain were on gravel, and surprisingly we got quite good at sleeping well on grit (thank goodness for our poofta pads).
We took two interesting stops during this drive. First Consuegra, a small farming town famous for several well preserved windmills of the type made famous by Don Quiote - aligned along a ridge, they were most photogenic. In the distance was a modern wind farm, one of many we have seen in our travels through France, Portugal and Spain. We thought NZ was well advanced with wind farms, but there are a great many in europe.
The second stop was in the Parque Natural de las Lagunas de Ruidera - a ribbon of 14 small lagoons. The water was strikingly blue and contrasted with the fairly arid scrubby terain around. It made a nice spot for a picnic lunch. The scenery in these parts reminded us of Australia - red soils, scrubby bush, vineyards -but with olive trees as well.
Our destination was Cuenca - famous for its old town and particularly a few houses dating back to the middle ages which overhang high steep cliffs.
Our campground near Cuenca was very nice, with plenty of space and best of all, we were on grass! Most of the tent sites in Spain were on gravel, and surprisingly we got quite good at sleeping well on grit (thank goodness for our poofta pads).
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Central Spain - Avila and Toledo
12 July
We had been recommended to stop at Avila, a medieval town famous for its buttressed wall with 88 watchtowers that surround the old town. We did a walk along the walls, which are most impressive, and also visited the Basilica de San Vicente - a huge and beautiful church with both Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
We climbed by car steadily from Avila to Toledo - still lots of farming, even at the summit of 1400m there were farms with sheep, goats and beef cattle.
We found a very nice camp site near Toledo, which had a good view of the city from the swimming pool! We took an evening walk into the city (still 33 degrees at 7.30pm!). The main souvenirs here are swords, but we decided we didn't really need one. The usual medieval lanes, cathedral, but Toledo's famous builing is the Alcazar, a massive stone fortress that has had a range of uses through time, now to be a museum of the Spanish civil war.
Two lots of sightseeing in one day - we slept well that night!
We had been recommended to stop at Avila, a medieval town famous for its buttressed wall with 88 watchtowers that surround the old town. We did a walk along the walls, which are most impressive, and also visited the Basilica de San Vicente - a huge and beautiful church with both Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
We climbed by car steadily from Avila to Toledo - still lots of farming, even at the summit of 1400m there were farms with sheep, goats and beef cattle.
We found a very nice camp site near Toledo, which had a good view of the city from the swimming pool! We took an evening walk into the city (still 33 degrees at 7.30pm!). The main souvenirs here are swords, but we decided we didn't really need one. The usual medieval lanes, cathedral, but Toledo's famous builing is the Alcazar, a massive stone fortress that has had a range of uses through time, now to be a museum of the Spanish civil war.
Two lots of sightseeing in one day - we slept well that night!
Spain - Salamanca
11 July
We drove in from our campsite to Salamanca and once we started to see clocks realised we had forgotten that there is a 1 hour time difference between Portugal and Spain, so it was already 11am - a late start for the day, but very Spanish!
We were instantly impressed with Salamanca -its beautiful architecture, warm sandstone colours -all a rich red brown. The spacious central Plaza Mayor was stunning. We followed a walking tour from our trusty Lonely Planet guide and had a wonderful day enjoying this lovely city. One of the highlights was a tour through the old and "new" (several hundred years' old!)cathedrals which allowed us to walk up to roof level with its views over the city. Owen did a walk at great height around a balcony inside the walls of the new cathedral, but I didn't have a head for such heights.
We drove in from our campsite to Salamanca and once we started to see clocks realised we had forgotten that there is a 1 hour time difference between Portugal and Spain, so it was already 11am - a late start for the day, but very Spanish!
We were instantly impressed with Salamanca -its beautiful architecture, warm sandstone colours -all a rich red brown. The spacious central Plaza Mayor was stunning. We followed a walking tour from our trusty Lonely Planet guide and had a wonderful day enjoying this lovely city. One of the highlights was a tour through the old and "new" (several hundred years' old!)cathedrals which allowed us to walk up to roof level with its views over the city. Owen did a walk at great height around a balcony inside the walls of the new cathedral, but I didn't have a head for such heights.
Last days in Portugal - Douro valley and bird watching
8 -9 July
The Douro valley is Portugal's premier port and wine growing region, so we had to check it out. The Douro river is set in a spectacular deep gorge, with grapes growing on the steep sides, almost on bare rock. Lots of hairpin bends to cross this river. For a change we spent a day on trains as this is the best way to view the scenery. We started on a small railcar which took 2 hours down a steep gorge to the main river, and then trips on bigger trains along the Douro. A very enjoyable day with fabulous vineyard scenery along this very wide river.
10 July
Our last day in Portugal turned out to be one of the highlights. We drove through the Parque Natural de Douro Internacional. We took stops at three viewpoints to watch huge birds of prey soaring up and along the cliffs of the upper Douru river. Great views looking across the river to the high plains of Spain which we were about to enter.
We crossed the Douro over a hydro dam into Spain and wound back up to the plateau, where for the first time we saw extensive beef cattle farming.
The Douro valley is Portugal's premier port and wine growing region, so we had to check it out. The Douro river is set in a spectacular deep gorge, with grapes growing on the steep sides, almost on bare rock. Lots of hairpin bends to cross this river. For a change we spent a day on trains as this is the best way to view the scenery. We started on a small railcar which took 2 hours down a steep gorge to the main river, and then trips on bigger trains along the Douro. A very enjoyable day with fabulous vineyard scenery along this very wide river.
10 July
Our last day in Portugal turned out to be one of the highlights. We drove through the Parque Natural de Douro Internacional. We took stops at three viewpoints to watch huge birds of prey soaring up and along the cliffs of the upper Douru river. Great views looking across the river to the high plains of Spain which we were about to enter.
We crossed the Douro over a hydro dam into Spain and wound back up to the plateau, where for the first time we saw extensive beef cattle farming.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Heading to the highest point in Portugal
6 and 7 July
We packed up and left our house at Nazare, had a last coffee there (NZ$1 for two coffees ...), took some last photos of the "black widows". Nazare is famous for these elderly women sitting in chairs waving signs for "rooms, zimmer, chambres". They wear short black dresses with heaps of petticoats underneath - traditional but actually not very flattering.
We headed inland to a central mountain national park, Parque Natural da Serra da Estrada. Pleased to get away from city and beach traffic. Nazare got exceedingly busy during the 8 days we were there - glad we saw it before the masses arrived.
Spectacular peaceful mountain scenery. Lots of granite strewn around. Camped in a camping ground at 1065 m and felt the cold at night! It was only 11 deg when we drove off in the morning. A hairpin bend road, but all sealed, took us up to Torre, Portugal's highest peak at 2,000m. There is a small ski run here. After this who should we meet on the road, but Selwyn Palmer and John Rix two orienteers from NZ who we knew were planning to tramp here. They were walking up the road to start a 4 day tramp in the Serra Estrada! Nice to catch up with them again. They had stayed at a hotel in the town of Mandeigas which we were heading for. As the price was good we decided to do the same (no camping ground nearby was our justification).
In the afternoon we attempted to do a mountain walk from the town as described in the Lonely Planet. Well the information is not accurate. We ended up doing a 4 1/2 hour trek, mainly on sealed country roads to our destination Poco d'Inferno. Not really an inferno, just some pools and waterfalls - the sort of thing you could see anywhere on a tramp in NZ - but the mountain setting and forest was nice. We met a Dutch couple who had the same problems using their Lonely Planet trying to get there - but they had taken their car this time! Must write to LP...
We packed up and left our house at Nazare, had a last coffee there (NZ$1 for two coffees ...), took some last photos of the "black widows". Nazare is famous for these elderly women sitting in chairs waving signs for "rooms, zimmer, chambres". They wear short black dresses with heaps of petticoats underneath - traditional but actually not very flattering.
We headed inland to a central mountain national park, Parque Natural da Serra da Estrada. Pleased to get away from city and beach traffic. Nazare got exceedingly busy during the 8 days we were there - glad we saw it before the masses arrived.
Spectacular peaceful mountain scenery. Lots of granite strewn around. Camped in a camping ground at 1065 m and felt the cold at night! It was only 11 deg when we drove off in the morning. A hairpin bend road, but all sealed, took us up to Torre, Portugal's highest peak at 2,000m. There is a small ski run here. After this who should we meet on the road, but Selwyn Palmer and John Rix two orienteers from NZ who we knew were planning to tramp here. They were walking up the road to start a 4 day tramp in the Serra Estrada! Nice to catch up with them again. They had stayed at a hotel in the town of Mandeigas which we were heading for. As the price was good we decided to do the same (no camping ground nearby was our justification).
In the afternoon we attempted to do a mountain walk from the town as described in the Lonely Planet. Well the information is not accurate. We ended up doing a 4 1/2 hour trek, mainly on sealed country roads to our destination Poco d'Inferno. Not really an inferno, just some pools and waterfalls - the sort of thing you could see anywhere on a tramp in NZ - but the mountain setting and forest was nice. We met a Dutch couple who had the same problems using their Lonely Planet trying to get there - but they had taken their car this time! Must write to LP...
WMOC final - Sat 5 July
Thanks to my two second placings, I was delighted with my start position and had a great run, just a couple of blemishes at control 9 and 10 (from memory). I think some of the top runners may have been holding back a bit in the qualifiers! The Russian woman who won in 42 minutes was truly amazing, 10 minutes faster than me! The sand was often soft and hard to move across, and it was a more physical course than we had previously. Even more like Waitarere with some deep depressions and steeper sand dune climbs. 12th was pleasing for me, it would have been very hard to make the top 10. Also pleased to see so many NZers achieved good results here.
Our last evening in Nazare, we went out for dinner with Craig, Carey and Marty. Carey was celebrating a good run too - 8th in her grade I think. It was a tiny family restaurant in one of the many narrow lanes in the town, sitting outside in the lane. The owner brought us a tray of fish for us to select which to have BBQed. It was a wonderful dinner. Afterwards Owen and I rode up the cable car to look down on the lights of town and beach of Nazare below us.
Our last evening in Nazare, we went out for dinner with Craig, Carey and Marty. Carey was celebrating a good run too - 8th in her grade I think. It was a tiny family restaurant in one of the many narrow lanes in the town, sitting outside in the lane. The owner brought us a tray of fish for us to select which to have BBQed. It was a wonderful dinner. Afterwards Owen and I rode up the cable car to look down on the lights of town and beach of Nazare below us.
Sintra
Friday 4 July
A rest day before the WMOC final.
Drove to Sintra which is a large plateau / mountainous forested area just north of Lisbon. It is famous for its fairytale castles. We visited three - first the National Palace. Owen was taken with the Magpie room - full of painted magpies on the ceiling - a cyclist's nightmare? Next the Moorish castle, although Moorish in origin it has been much converted into 19th century romantic version. Set on a mountain top, with lots of open walls, ramparts, towers, it was very photogenic. Finally the Pena National Palace - was reconstructed in Bavarian style in the 1840's, very quirky, colourful - a jumble of styles and again very photogenic. Saturated with castles, we drove home.
A rest day before the WMOC final.
Drove to Sintra which is a large plateau / mountainous forested area just north of Lisbon. It is famous for its fairytale castles. We visited three - first the National Palace. Owen was taken with the Magpie room - full of painted magpies on the ceiling - a cyclist's nightmare? Next the Moorish castle, although Moorish in origin it has been much converted into 19th century romantic version. Set on a mountain top, with lots of open walls, ramparts, towers, it was very photogenic. Finally the Pena National Palace - was reconstructed in Bavarian style in the 1840's, very quirky, colourful - a jumble of styles and again very photogenic. Saturated with castles, we drove home.
Nazare
Wed 2 July and Thursday 3 July
Qualification races for WMOC final - runs went well and came 2nd in both.
Otherwise we relaxed at Nazare, and visited a nearby beautiful well-preserved medieval town, Obidos. Preparations were being made in the castle for a medieval festival, so there were lots of extra authentic medieval buildings being put up within the castle. We walked along the ramparts, or rather I clung to the crenelations (spelling?), there were huge drop offs. There was a sign saying children should be supervised - I would never take a child up there! OSH obviously more relaxed here.
Qualification races for WMOC final - runs went well and came 2nd in both.
Otherwise we relaxed at Nazare, and visited a nearby beautiful well-preserved medieval town, Obidos. Preparations were being made in the castle for a medieval festival, so there were lots of extra authentic medieval buildings being put up within the castle. We walked along the ramparts, or rather I clung to the crenelations (spelling?), there were huge drop offs. There was a sign saying children should be supervised - I would never take a child up there! OSH obviously more relaxed here.
Lisbon
Tuesday 1 July
We decided to catch a bus to Lisbon for a day trip (2 hours). We followed a walking tour as outlined in the Lonely Planet - except missed the bit about catching a tram to the top of the hill were the castle was - so a big hike up through the old town. The castle was worth it though and had great views looking down on the town and bridges. There was a geocache in the castle, one where you post a photo of yourself at the spot indicated. Overall, we were glad we visited Lisbon, but did not feel it had the features of some of the other cities we have visited so far.
We decided to catch a bus to Lisbon for a day trip (2 hours). We followed a walking tour as outlined in the Lonely Planet - except missed the bit about catching a tram to the top of the hill were the castle was - so a big hike up through the old town. The castle was worth it though and had great views looking down on the town and bridges. There was a geocache in the castle, one where you post a photo of yourself at the spot indicated. Overall, we were glad we visited Lisbon, but did not feel it had the features of some of the other cities we have visited so far.
Nazare
Sat 28 June
We had a leisurely day exploring the town. Wonderful tiny little lanes with cafes, restaurants, shops. We fell across the large covered market - a huge array of fish, summer fruits and vegetables all at good prices. Managed a few purchases with a mixture of pointing and nodding and one word we have mastered - obrigato - thank you. We walked up the cliff path to an even older part of the town which has amazing views looking down on the town and the beach. There is a cable car going up which we took later on our last evening to see the lights.
Sun 28 June
Sprint qualifier race - straight into narrow medieval lanes below a castle - got thrown by the first two controls, then settled down to enjoy the rest of the race. The longer courses went into the castle, which we visited later in the afternoon when the racing was over.
Then on to a famous monastery at Alcobaca - not far from our house. Large and truly amazing walking through the church, various dormitories, refectory. The highlight was the kitchen with its massive chimneys and a huge marble table for rolling out the pastry. Gastronomy was a high priority here in the past. If monks could not fit through a small doorway to a bathroom they were made to diet.
Monday 30 June
Sprint final race at Praia da Viera (praia means beach).
Because of yesterday´s bad start I was in the B final. We started in a pine forest adjcaent to the town, then into tiny medieval lanes and suddenly out to a modern beach promenade - all in 1.3km! To my surprise I easily won the B final. Went on to do some forest training at a model event with Sue and Robert. Beautiful open pine forest, very like Santoft.
We had a leisurely day exploring the town. Wonderful tiny little lanes with cafes, restaurants, shops. We fell across the large covered market - a huge array of fish, summer fruits and vegetables all at good prices. Managed a few purchases with a mixture of pointing and nodding and one word we have mastered - obrigato - thank you. We walked up the cliff path to an even older part of the town which has amazing views looking down on the town and the beach. There is a cable car going up which we took later on our last evening to see the lights.
Sun 28 June
Sprint qualifier race - straight into narrow medieval lanes below a castle - got thrown by the first two controls, then settled down to enjoy the rest of the race. The longer courses went into the castle, which we visited later in the afternoon when the racing was over.
Then on to a famous monastery at Alcobaca - not far from our house. Large and truly amazing walking through the church, various dormitories, refectory. The highlight was the kitchen with its massive chimneys and a huge marble table for rolling out the pastry. Gastronomy was a high priority here in the past. If monks could not fit through a small doorway to a bathroom they were made to diet.
Monday 30 June
Sprint final race at Praia da Viera (praia means beach).
Because of yesterday´s bad start I was in the B final. We started in a pine forest adjcaent to the town, then into tiny medieval lanes and suddenly out to a modern beach promenade - all in 1.3km! To my surprise I easily won the B final. Went on to do some forest training at a model event with Sue and Robert. Beautiful open pine forest, very like Santoft.
Nazare
Friday 27 June
A coastal drive southwards. We stopped to visit Figueira da Foz. This was a seaside with a difference! Although sunny, it was really foggy over the sea. We walked on a 300m boardwalk over golden sand through the fog - the sea was out of sight, so was the town. Eventually we were able to make out the sea. It looked grey and the waves looked dangerous. Amazingly this huge beach becomes full of people in high summer.
Then on to the orienteering event centre at Marinha Grande. It was nice to quickly catch up with a lot of NZ orienteers. A warm up race started on a forest on the edge of town. A hot afternoon, 30 deg and my course turned out to be 8km. I skipped a lot of controls and still had a run of over an hour.
Finding our house at Nazare was quite an epic - with the help of our in car GPS and phone calls to Carey who was aready there we finally located it. It is a really spacious well-appointed 3 level house with three bathrooms and a roof terrace with views over the town and beach. (Makes a nice change from camping!). We shared the house with Carey and Craig Nazzer and 12 year old Marty, and Sue Scott and Rob Newbrook - all from Taranaki.
A coastal drive southwards. We stopped to visit Figueira da Foz. This was a seaside with a difference! Although sunny, it was really foggy over the sea. We walked on a 300m boardwalk over golden sand through the fog - the sea was out of sight, so was the town. Eventually we were able to make out the sea. It looked grey and the waves looked dangerous. Amazingly this huge beach becomes full of people in high summer.
Then on to the orienteering event centre at Marinha Grande. It was nice to quickly catch up with a lot of NZ orienteers. A warm up race started on a forest on the edge of town. A hot afternoon, 30 deg and my course turned out to be 8km. I skipped a lot of controls and still had a run of over an hour.
Finding our house at Nazare was quite an epic - with the help of our in car GPS and phone calls to Carey who was aready there we finally located it. It is a really spacious well-appointed 3 level house with three bathrooms and a roof terrace with views over the town and beach. (Makes a nice change from camping!). We shared the house with Carey and Craig Nazzer and 12 year old Marty, and Sue Scott and Rob Newbrook - all from Taranaki.
Over the border into Portugal
We felt like fake pilgrims arriving in the square in front of the big cathedral in Santiago de C. It was all a bit of a circus and we didn´t feel compelled to stay very long. On into Portugal, heading for Amarente and camped there. The camping ground appeared deserted. Next day we drove into Porto. Decided to follow a Lonely Planet walking tour which started with a visit to Port manufacturing company. This included a guided tour by a young guy and a tasting (a bit early in the morning but you have to do it). The views across the river to the city were superb. I have included a photo with some boats in the foreground. These boats are still used to bring the wine down the river from the vinyards. There were the usual narrow streets with shops the size of phone booths and many churches. Finally we walked down through the Ribiera district which was a rundown seedy neighbourhood, best not visited at night. Camping that night was at a version of Tangimoana. The camp ground was almost deserted and was completely surrounded by a high wire fence. We are getting used to the barrier arms for entry and exit. Not seen an armed guard yet but wouldn´t be surprised if we did. Looking forward to arriving in Nazarre the next day.
Picos de Europa
Its not just old cities in this part of the world. We decided to take a route through Picos de Europa which is one of Spain´s national park. Spectacular mountain scenery with narrow winding roads and massive granite peaks. Decided to camp the night at Fuente De which was at the foot of a huge granite wall. A great crashing of thunder began as we were setting off for an evening walk. We raced back to our camp to rescue the washing. It rained most of the night and we woke to a misty morning. The road took us SW over Puerto de San Glorio pass at 1609 m. A foggy crossing of the pass. We lunched at Mansilla de las Mulas which was our first encounter with the Carmino de Santiago. This is a pilgrim trail that runs from Barcelona to Santiago de Compostella. While having lunch we watched walkers, cyclists and walkers with donkey go through. We camped that night right beside the trail at a hostel for pilgrims.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Northern Spain
Arrived reasonably early in the seaside city of San Sebastian. Mist still covered the hills surrounding the harbour. We went for a walk along the harbour beach front then through the old town. Most cities have an old town which consists of very narrow streets, sometimes only for pedestrians but often shared with cars. Then motored on to Bilbao. The main feature here is the Guggenheim museum which resembles a pile of crushed aluminium cans. Lots of walking again. We always parked in a parking building which is a more efficient use of our time and the charges are generally only about half that in NZ. Also they are more secure than parking on the street. We stopped that night at Santander more for convenience than for its scenic wonders. So far most of the camping grounds have been fair quiet but things are due to get much busier after our stay in Nazarre.
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