27 - 29 July
We found a campsite close to Bordeaux and from here spent the afternoon in the city. Public transport is really well organised. We drove a short distance to a "Park and Ride" where we parked the car and took a "tram" - which is really a very modern light rail system. The cost for parking and tram tickets return for the two of us was only E2.60 - about NZ $5. The rail network was very easy and convenient to use - a bit like an underground rail system, but all above ground.
Bordeaux reminded us of Paris with its stone buildings 3-4 storeys high with wrought iron balconies. The centre is very spacious and mainly pedestrian, although lots of people were riding bikes (and taking them on the trams which made for a squash at times).
The park land along the edge of the wide river Garonne has been developed quite recently and was very pleasant to stroll along. A very popular feature was the "Eau Miroire" - a simple idea but most effective. It was a large rectangle, about the size of a hockey field. The black tiles were covered in a few centimetres of water, giving a mirror effect. People were paddling around in it (lovely on the feet on a hot day!), but they seemed to be hanging about waiting, then suddenly cool steam erupted from vents creating a fog which was high enough to blot out all the people. After a few minutes that dispersed and smaller fountains of water played. This sequence was repeated over and over. Such a simple idea, but enjoyed by kids of all ages!
We spent the afternoon walking about the city - many impressive historic buildings in light coloured stone.
Friday, August 8, 2008
Bordeaux wine country
25 - 27 July
We left the Pyrenees behind and headed NW back towards Bordeaux, our destination being the township of St Emilion. We arrived late in the afternoon and were amazed how this lovely old township was absolutely overrun with tourists. It is surounded by vineyards and is one of the most famous Bordeaux wine growing regions. For the first time for a long time we could hear English (and American) being spoken around us. We had to drive about 20km to find a campsite that was not ridiculously over-priced, and found a wonderful quiet one and stopped here for two nights so that we could return to St Emilion for a full day visit. We did the tourist thing and caught a little train in St E that went on the roads for a tour around the surrounding wineries. We got off at one and inspected the underground limestone caves where the barrels are stored. The commentary was only in French, but we got the general idea.
In the afternoon we used a walking map to do a 2 1/2 hour walk ourselves through country lanes and vineyards. It was a hot day but a very scenic and enjoyable walk.
We left the Pyrenees behind and headed NW back towards Bordeaux, our destination being the township of St Emilion. We arrived late in the afternoon and were amazed how this lovely old township was absolutely overrun with tourists. It is surounded by vineyards and is one of the most famous Bordeaux wine growing regions. For the first time for a long time we could hear English (and American) being spoken around us. We had to drive about 20km to find a campsite that was not ridiculously over-priced, and found a wonderful quiet one and stopped here for two nights so that we could return to St Emilion for a full day visit. We did the tourist thing and caught a little train in St E that went on the roads for a tour around the surrounding wineries. We got off at one and inspected the underground limestone caves where the barrels are stored. The commentary was only in French, but we got the general idea.
In the afternoon we used a walking map to do a 2 1/2 hour walk ourselves through country lanes and vineyards. It was a hot day but a very scenic and enjoyable walk.
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
Back into France
23 - 24 July
We enjoyed returning into France, although quickly noticed that some essentials like coffe and ice creams were much more expensive. We continued our tour through the Pyrenees, now heading east as we wanted to explore the cols that we did not see in our last tour of France three years ago. We drove the Col de Marie Blanque (1035m), and on to a campsite at the start of the Col dÁubisque. At least camping in France was cheaper than Spain, and this was the most delightful campsite we experienced on our whole tour. It was grassy, expansive and had wonderful views of the surrounding mountains.
Next day we were disappointed to see the mountains above us were foggy, but we needn´t have despaired. As we climbed higher up the Col d´Aubisque (1709m) we rose above the clouds into wonderful alpine scenery. Both these cols are famous ones used in the Tour de France. For a change it was horses with bells grazing at the top - very photogenic!
We drove on to our final goal in the Pyrenees - the westward climb up the Col de Tourmalet which we had ridden up from the other side three years ago. Lots of cyclists were riding this famous col - some looked really knackered.
We enjoyed returning into France, although quickly noticed that some essentials like coffe and ice creams were much more expensive. We continued our tour through the Pyrenees, now heading east as we wanted to explore the cols that we did not see in our last tour of France three years ago. We drove the Col de Marie Blanque (1035m), and on to a campsite at the start of the Col dÁubisque. At least camping in France was cheaper than Spain, and this was the most delightful campsite we experienced on our whole tour. It was grassy, expansive and had wonderful views of the surrounding mountains.
Next day we were disappointed to see the mountains above us were foggy, but we needn´t have despaired. As we climbed higher up the Col d´Aubisque (1709m) we rose above the clouds into wonderful alpine scenery. Both these cols are famous ones used in the Tour de France. For a change it was horses with bells grazing at the top - very photogenic!
We drove on to our final goal in the Pyrenees - the westward climb up the Col de Tourmalet which we had ridden up from the other side three years ago. Lots of cyclists were riding this famous col - some looked really knackered.
Into the Spanish Pyrenees
19 - 22 July
It was time to head NW towards the Pyrenees, and our eventual destination of Bordeaux, France to return the car. We took a quick detour to visit Andorra - which is apparently a place to buy cheap petrol and diesel, as well as food, alcohol and general duty free shopping. We unfortunately had a full tank of diesel at the time. We did a supermarket shop, but were glad to escape from the strips of service stations and shopping malls.
Much more enjoyable was the alpine scenery, which was becoming more and more stunning as we headed westwards, crossing cols and valleys. Nice camping sites too.
The highlight of our time in the Spanish Pyrenees was a visit to Parc Nacional D´Aigues Tortes Sant Maurici. This is a small national park in the extreme NW of Catalonia. No cars are allowed in, no camping, shooting, fishing, swimming which keeps the park very prisitine. We bought tickets for a 4WD jeep trip in, which took us up steeply into the park, although the road was sealed. We got out at 1800m into a fairytale mountain scene of steep peaks, fir trees, boulders lakes and rivers. We did a 4 1/2 hour hike up to the main col in the park - Portarro at 2,427m. Here, as often at the cols, cows with bells were grazing. It was a wonderful day in the mountains and so photogenic!
This area was also famous for its very old Romanesque churches with distinctive bell towers. These date back to the 11th century, so we took the opportunity to visit one, and climb the bell tower.
Our last stops in Spain were in some delightful mountain villages. One was Ainsa which had a most interesting ecomuseum with the theme of protecting the ecology of the Pyrenees. They had a live collection of mountain birds that had been injured by power cables, or hunters. It was great to see owls and birds of prey close up. Power cables kill and injure many of these birds, and we since noticed bells or othr objects hanging from them to alert birds to the wires.
Our last camping in Spain was at another lovely little town, Valle de Hecho, and its sister town Anso up the valley was equally pretty. From here we headed over the Pyrenees via one of the quieter mountain passes into France - the Col de la Pierre Saint Martin 1765m - a most spectacular drive, again with brown cows complete with bells, grazing at the top.
It was time to head NW towards the Pyrenees, and our eventual destination of Bordeaux, France to return the car. We took a quick detour to visit Andorra - which is apparently a place to buy cheap petrol and diesel, as well as food, alcohol and general duty free shopping. We unfortunately had a full tank of diesel at the time. We did a supermarket shop, but were glad to escape from the strips of service stations and shopping malls.
Much more enjoyable was the alpine scenery, which was becoming more and more stunning as we headed westwards, crossing cols and valleys. Nice camping sites too.
The highlight of our time in the Spanish Pyrenees was a visit to Parc Nacional D´Aigues Tortes Sant Maurici. This is a small national park in the extreme NW of Catalonia. No cars are allowed in, no camping, shooting, fishing, swimming which keeps the park very prisitine. We bought tickets for a 4WD jeep trip in, which took us up steeply into the park, although the road was sealed. We got out at 1800m into a fairytale mountain scene of steep peaks, fir trees, boulders lakes and rivers. We did a 4 1/2 hour hike up to the main col in the park - Portarro at 2,427m. Here, as often at the cols, cows with bells were grazing. It was a wonderful day in the mountains and so photogenic!
This area was also famous for its very old Romanesque churches with distinctive bell towers. These date back to the 11th century, so we took the opportunity to visit one, and climb the bell tower.
Our last stops in Spain were in some delightful mountain villages. One was Ainsa which had a most interesting ecomuseum with the theme of protecting the ecology of the Pyrenees. They had a live collection of mountain birds that had been injured by power cables, or hunters. It was great to see owls and birds of prey close up. Power cables kill and injure many of these birds, and we since noticed bells or othr objects hanging from them to alert birds to the wires.
Our last camping in Spain was at another lovely little town, Valle de Hecho, and its sister town Anso up the valley was equally pretty. From here we headed over the Pyrenees via one of the quieter mountain passes into France - the Col de la Pierre Saint Martin 1765m - a most spectacular drive, again with brown cows complete with bells, grazing at the top.
Barcelona
17 July
We decided not to tackle driving into this large city, the second biggest in Spain. Instead we drove to a smaller town inland, Vilafranca del Penedes and booked into a nice tidy, clean pension for two nights. This was the centre of one of Spain´s famous wine growing regions. From here we took a train in the afternoon in to Barcelona - a one hour trip which took us right into the central Placa de Cataluna. Emerging here from underground we were quite overwhelmed with the crowds and how busy it was. Our first destination was Parc Guell - landscaped by Gaudi. We were to become very familiar with Gaudi´s works over our two days here. This park is free to visit - and was very crowded. It contained several Gaudi inspired buildings - kind of weird, ornate, bizarre "Hansel and Gretel" buildings.
18 July
Next morning we caught an early train in to Barcelona. Our goal was visiting La Sagrada Familia before the crowds - the famous cathedral designed by Gaudi and still under construction since his death about 50 years ago. It was well worth the expense of the tickets and headphones with English commentary - it was truly amazing, both inside and outside - and has to be one of the urban wonders of the world, even though it is only half finished. It was very interesting to see construction going on around us - lots of scaffolding inside and out. Also people were working on plaster models in preparation for design detail. We spent quite a lot of time in the underground museum beneath the cathedral. This cathedral was certainly the highlight of our visit to Barcelona - and was very photogenic!
We spent the rest of the day touring the city, sitting on top of an open air double decker bus. We were able to get on and off as we wished and our tickets included three different routes around this vast city. Many sights to see! - the site of the 1992 Olympics, the Mediterranean port area, and walking the famous La Rambla - a wide and extremely crowded pedestrian street that stretches from the port area to the central Placa de Cataluna.
We decided not to tackle driving into this large city, the second biggest in Spain. Instead we drove to a smaller town inland, Vilafranca del Penedes and booked into a nice tidy, clean pension for two nights. This was the centre of one of Spain´s famous wine growing regions. From here we took a train in the afternoon in to Barcelona - a one hour trip which took us right into the central Placa de Cataluna. Emerging here from underground we were quite overwhelmed with the crowds and how busy it was. Our first destination was Parc Guell - landscaped by Gaudi. We were to become very familiar with Gaudi´s works over our two days here. This park is free to visit - and was very crowded. It contained several Gaudi inspired buildings - kind of weird, ornate, bizarre "Hansel and Gretel" buildings.
18 July
Next morning we caught an early train in to Barcelona. Our goal was visiting La Sagrada Familia before the crowds - the famous cathedral designed by Gaudi and still under construction since his death about 50 years ago. It was well worth the expense of the tickets and headphones with English commentary - it was truly amazing, both inside and outside - and has to be one of the urban wonders of the world, even though it is only half finished. It was very interesting to see construction going on around us - lots of scaffolding inside and out. Also people were working on plaster models in preparation for design detail. We spent quite a lot of time in the underground museum beneath the cathedral. This cathedral was certainly the highlight of our visit to Barcelona - and was very photogenic!
We spent the rest of the day touring the city, sitting on top of an open air double decker bus. We were able to get on and off as we wished and our tickets included three different routes around this vast city. Many sights to see! - the site of the 1992 Olympics, the Mediterranean port area, and walking the famous La Rambla - a wide and extremely crowded pedestrian street that stretches from the port area to the central Placa de Cataluna.
Tarragona
16 July
We spent a day in this city, famous for its Roman ruins.
We bought a "global ticket" and saw a wide range of interesting ruins, including the forum, an amphitheatre, a chariot racing area, with amazing underground tunnels, and walked along the old roman walls.
We camped just north of the city, near a nice beach, but our campsite was sandwiched between a busy railway line and a busy road so it wasn´t exactly peaceful. This was typical of our impressions of this part of the coast of Spain - nice beaches, but we were driving on very busy roads which were through industrial and commercial areas, so not very scenic.
We spent a day in this city, famous for its Roman ruins.
We bought a "global ticket" and saw a wide range of interesting ruins, including the forum, an amphitheatre, a chariot racing area, with amazing underground tunnels, and walked along the old roman walls.
We camped just north of the city, near a nice beach, but our campsite was sandwiched between a busy railway line and a busy road so it wasn´t exactly peaceful. This was typical of our impressions of this part of the coast of Spain - nice beaches, but we were driving on very busy roads which were through industrial and commercial areas, so not very scenic.
Heading north along the Spanish coast to Barcelona
15-16 July
We camped near the mouth of the river Ebro. This is a huge river delta and is a vast rice growing area. European camping grounds never have anywhere to cook or sit and eat, so we took our cold salad dinner to have at the only available table and chairs which were in the childrens´playground. Children were kicking soccer balls and playing badminton all around us. It was 9 pm by this time - a very early dinner time by Spanish standards. We headed off to bed at 10pm, about the time the locals started eating.
We camped near the mouth of the river Ebro. This is a huge river delta and is a vast rice growing area. European camping grounds never have anywhere to cook or sit and eat, so we took our cold salad dinner to have at the only available table and chairs which were in the childrens´playground. Children were kicking soccer balls and playing badminton all around us. It was 9 pm by this time - a very early dinner time by Spanish standards. We headed off to bed at 10pm, about the time the locals started eating.
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